Giorgio Armani's perfect wire-frame glasses-The New York Times

2021-12-08 06:36:53 By : Mr. Vic Yan

The first, the end of the world

Since he first introduced them in the 80s, the designer has improved his iconic oval specifications here and there, but has always maintained its classic charm.

Give any friend a story

As a subscriber, you have 10 gifts to send every month. Anyone can read what you share.

GIORGIO ARMANI, 86 years old, still leads the Milan fashion house he founded in 1975, and is a master of expansion and evolution. Since the 1980's Paul Schrader (Paul Schrader) noir film "American Gigolo" (American Gigolo) Richard Gere (Richard Gere) wardrobe gained international attention, the designer has been a generation of men Freed from the compliance of the roomy black and navy Brooks Brothers, his pleated linen jacket and dove and cappuccino suits. Inspired by Italian tailoring traditions, Japanese aesthetics and decorative arts, his empire now covers everything from furniture to perfume, but his dedication to monochromatic modernity has never wavered.

Chapter 1: The rise of strong "Oriental" perfumes reflecting the political and cultural landscape of the 1980s.

Chapter 2: About the advancement of knitting, wigs, and other black hairstyles in the 1990s, ushering in a new era of self-expression.

Chapter 3: Regarding vegetable oil, this is a simple fact of life in most parts of the world. In the 2000s, the West began to show an almost religious aura.

Chapter 4: About men's makeup, a long-established practice, but it has really become popular in the past ten years.

Armani himself insisted on the fresh, childish uniform that has been consistent for decades: cashmere or cotton navy blue sweaters, fine white T-shirts, well-tailored pants and spotless white sneakers. But perhaps his most well-known logo is a pair of oval metal wire-framed silver glasses. He has been wearing sunglasses and reading sunglasses since the late 1980s, when he used them as part of the brand’s first ever eyewear collection. roll out. "Once I find something that suits me, I rarely change it. I just update it," he said. Although he has skillfully adjusted the shape of the glasses over time, their essence has remained the same for more than 30 years, resisting the ubiquitous thick tortoise shells, oversized pilots and many other past trends. His latest model is called Icon, with gold, bronze or black titanium frames, and can choose blue, brown or clear lenses. Armani has always been influenced by the golden age of Hollywood, recalling his “fantasy and memory of the unique atmosphere and elegance of these movies: soft and relaxed, but the characters are absolutely dressed in a decent way,” he said. "These are glasses that Cary Grant or Greta Garbo would wear."